Most maple species are naturally under story plants, but as gardeners we have forced them into the open landscape. This injury can set the trees growth back considerably. Maples are thin-barked and can be sun scalded during the first year or two after transplanting. Sometimes the roots will become sun baked and the stress will show up in the leaves as if there has been too much sun or wind. Leaves will show signs of stress with burning on the tips. Wind and hot sun can wipe a small tree out in no time, regardless of the cultivar. Keep in mind when you place your tree into the landscape that morning sun and afternoon shade will suit most maples best. Young trees will need to be protected from the elements until they have formed established roots. Try to match your maple cultivar to your planting location with regards to the amount of sun, wind exposure and space availability the tree will receive. With so many cultivars to choose from this should not be a problem as you should be able to match your landscape situation with the right cultivar. The placement of your tree can mean the difference between an attractive lush growing maple and a straggly struggling one. If you are planting in spring try to avoid disturbing any plant parts that recently have broken bud are is producing new, soft growth. Fall planting also allows the carbohydrates that are produced during the summer to be directed to root growth since there is little demand from the top. Unlike the tops of the maple that go dormant and cease growth for the winter, roots of maples continue to grow throughout the fall and early winter months if temperatures are not below freezing. If that didn’t happen, then the ideal planting time is now! If you plant in the fall you take advantage of the new root growth that occurs during the dormant season. There is an old saying that states “The best time to plant a tree is yesterday”.
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